tutorial for AHG

is there a tutorial for AHG somewhere

can someone help me with it?

im very confused

Have you read the 'read me' that comes with the file? It pretty much explains everything you need to know

Originally posted by Edge

Have you read the 'read me' that comes with the file? It pretty much explains everything you need to know

it doesn't help me at all, i mean i understand it, but i dont understand where on the track do i do it, like a flat turn, or a turn that already has shape to it

i've tried many times and it never turns out right

Typically you'll do it on the WHOLE ride (or from right after the lift to right before the brakes anyway)

Originally posted by Thorazine

Typically you'll do it on the WHOLE ride (or from right after the lift to right before the brakes anyway)

i open up AHG and load the finished track and then what do i do after i put in the heartline number?
cuz there isn't just one speed for the whole duration

You can't just give it a compelte track. It needs to be a segment, with no lifts or other speed altering devices.

ok...
well then, can anyone heartline it for me?
cuz i sure cant

Sure you can. READ THE DIRECTIONS. It's not rocket science, it just requries you to have an attention span in excess of 3 seconds...

Make sure you have the latest version: http://nldc.interfix.net/pageid-6.html

Start the element from the top of your drop to the ending brakes.

Take the starting speed in whatever you wish and convert to m/s using http://nldc.interfix.net/calculator (very last tool at bottom). Input that number into "V-In". Then find out what speed it ends at, do the same conversion and input that at "V-Out". I would advise adding anywhere from 0.5 to 1.0 onto those numbers to ensure it makes it around.

Next, specify the number of segments you want (play around for best results depending on track) and specify the heartline size using the table on the right.

From there, heartline it. Remember, if you have any segments that pull from 0.0 to any negative number, meaning -0.1 to anything up to -100000, then you need to color the SPINE of those segments PURE BLACK. The segment BEFORE the black needs to be in PURE RED and the segment AFTER needs to be PURE GREEN.


Then process the track.



There is an added feature to the new one where you can specify how much you want each peice of track to be Filtered. Using color codes on the RAILS you can specify certain parts to filter more or less depending on the desired result. More filter means smoother but less like original shape and less filter means more like original shape but less smoothing.

I still don't understand how you would do more than one element, I've tried putting in the top of the lift speed, and the speed right before it hits the brakes, I've color coded all the negitive G-elements and It either just takes the banking out of the entire ride, or it twists everything up.

well, you need a GOOD track that's smooth for input. If it's not, you'll get crap out.

I know bumps wack it out and screw it all up, but I still dont get the whole multi-element thing.

Dude, whats not to understand?

One thing to add - if you have a MCB, take the segments up TO the MCB. Dont include it. Just like when you heartline the section after, take the segments starting AFTER it and till the final brakes. I tend to start with 5ft of straight track and end with 5ft or more.

I will quote myself on how to get rid of the twists

Originally posted by Real
Remember, if you have any segments that pull from 0.0 to any negative number, meaning -0.1 to anything up to -100000, then you need to color the SPINE of those segments PURE BLACK. The segment BEFORE the black needs to be in PURE RED and the segment AFTER needs to be PURE GREEN.

ONLY use black when you go negative G. Otherwise, use WHITE. Black color coding takes the track and KEEPS the banking it originally started with (or very close to). So if you have no banking and you want the AHG to bank it, use WHITE. If you have banking but still want the AHG to bank it, use WHITE. If you have banking and want to keep it, use BLACK.


Its very simple...

I actually never use green or red segments. Just black (where) needed, short segments (6.5ft typical), and big filters (120-150 for loopers and woodies, to 200+ for hypers)

You should, they make a big difference when transfering from white to black. Especially when you use it on inversions to keep it from flipping. That way you dont have to turn the filter up so huge.

I never use filters over 100, only in very rare occasions. I only used a filter over 100 in 3 cases on my latest three rides Ive been working on. I try to stick around 50-80.